Our best investment for this trip was the $5 solar camp shower. We slept so much more soundly last night after being able to wash away that sticky film of salt water. It's a black heavy plastic water sac that holds 5 gallons of water. It hangs and heats the water in the sun during the day. Since we made land fall at sunset and we were fairly soaked from the paddle in, it was nice to have a "hot" shower before getting into our dry clothes. We both got out into the water again for more snorkeling and found an amazing chunk of coral head almost to the edge of the designated swim zone, almost into the channel where the boats and seaplanes would traverse. There was a bit more chop to the water today and a bit more debris clouding our view, but it was intense to be swimming in a school of fish with literally thousands of fish all around us. Touring Fort Jefferson P1010759I finally decided to join one of the tours of the Fort that takes up 12 acres of Garden Key. Each day, shortly after the ferry arrives, the tour guide organizes and leads a tour of the fort. I started out with the group but then broke away on my own, there was enough signage explaining the history and the various uses for the nooks and crannies, plus, getting away from the crowd allowed for better photography. In my usual fascination, I took detailed shots of the tree bark and leaves of the few species of tree that inhabit this island. There was a pair of Sharp-shinned hawks who made it to the island, periodically peeling out their high pitched whistle of a cry. P1010738I spent extra time walking along the top of the three story Fort. Open air and incredible views into the Gulf and across to the other islands. You could easily see the new island Bird Key that Wilma was kind enough to bring to the surface. Actually, Bird Key had been there for a long time and disappeared around 1983. Just months ago you could walk from Garden Key over to Bush Key, but Wilma created a nine foot deep channel between the islands. Kayaking to Bush Key and around Garden Key Mine were the only footprints in the sandIt was a little windy today, but we decided to make the short paddle over to Bush Key. Primarily because there are no places on Garden Key where we were camping that allowed for fishing. We were hoping to catch something to grill for dinner. So off in the kayak we went to Bush Key. I loved seeing that my feet were leaving the only foot prints in the sand. I beach combed with my camera and took photos of the best shells, coconuts and Mark fishing. I walked to the far end to get closer to Long Key which is off limits to humans year round. I tried to get some interesting shots of the Magnificent Frigate Birds which were currently nesting and mating on the island. These birds have an eight foot wing span on an impressively light weight 3-4 lb body. They were truly a magnificent sight to see when they took to they air. I was close enough to see the males puffing their bright red throat sac during their courtship display. Supposedly there is a salt water crocodile that lives on the southern end of Long Key and we were told not to go near there if we kayaked in that direction.Magnificent Frigate Birds The island turns into a birders paradise come February when spring migrations bring hundreds of thousands of birds through here, including breeding and nesting of Sooty Terns. (I'll later add a species list to link to photos I took.) Mark had little success fishing of the island; there was a great deal of surf crashing onto shore making it difficult. We decided to head out and circle Garden Key, Mark would fish along the way. It was a choppy and slow going paddle around the island. Mark got a nibble or two, but we both needed to be focused on keeping the kayak on the right heading. The wind and the waves were conspiring to smash us into the moat wall. We met an interesting couple this evening and shared our dinner and sat around chatting in the moonlight-- she was a marine biologist, he was a marine ecologist-- made for interesting conversation. They were here for some serious diving.